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One of the great points about using the Sustrans trail is
that one sees vistas that motorists are unlikely to ever see. There is a
penalty, however, in the strain on heart and lungs in cycling up some pretty
steep tracks! |
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There are some occasions when the navigator has to
consult his analogue tracking device (map) |
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Peaty stream running through a limestone
gorge of the small but pretty kind. |
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All these pics were taken on our journey
through Coed y Brenin on our way to Dolgellau on day one. Here, a couple are
just sitting in the warm sunshine enjoying a picnic. How sensible! |
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We arrived at our day one destination somewhat earlier
than expected. The George IIIrd Hotel at Penmaenpool to be precise. We were
staying in what was platform one of the old railway station just a couple of
metres to the right of this picture. You can see the toll bridge, recently
renovated which saves a longish drive around the neck of the estuary. |
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And that is the view from our bedroom door! Just perfect,
like the weather. How lucky we were... |
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Because we had a little spare energy, we
dumped our panniers and took a short trip to the mouth of the Mawddych; a
blissfully flat and speedy journey along the lovely sandy banks of the
estuary in the shadow of Cader Idris. |
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The only way to cross the mouth of the
estuary is by rail, foot or pedal bike.
Barmouth beckons beyond. |
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An hour or so later, we finally give in to the notion of
sitting, glass in hand, to watch the sun go down. |
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So bright is the setting sun that I had to hide under
this exotic tree to avoid all the problems that sun shining down the lens
causes. A perfect day. |
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Having already sampled the fast and flat
(former railway track) it was easy to repeat the experience on day two with
a strong tail wind which took us part of the way to our next destination:
Machynlleth.
The track is part of the Snowdonia National
Park as the way marker shows. |
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All very far from the madding crowd... |
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Having turned the corner at Tywyn, we enter Happy Valley
in the teeth of an easterly gale. Not quite as happy as the first hour of
that day as we struggle higher and higher. A useful rehearsal of what is to
come. The 'big one' starts from Machynlleth. |
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This is the top of Happy Valley, just before we rush
down, brake blocks hot with friction to rejoin the A 493 near Pennal. |
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Early lunch is taken in a cafe in
Machynlleth, the former ancient capital of Wales. The whole town was a
vibrant street market, but we had no time to enjoy it, a big hill had to be
climbed... |
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And here was a cryptic clue: a narrow
MOUNTAIN road to Llanidloes. In south Wales they talk of any big hill being
a mountain, hereabouts a mountain is a mountain.
The road ascends to 500 metres above sea
level in just eight miles from sea leve. |
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Part way up, I take a breather to photograph the hills
that we have yet to meet head on. |
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Close to the summit of the pass, the view back down to
Machynlleth. The road looks deceptively flat, believe me, it aint! |
| At the very top, Sustrans have thoughtfully installed
something to lean against whilst soaking up the glory, and anticipating the
downhill run through Dylife Gorge to Llanidloes. |
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On the way down , there are excellent views through the
Twymyn Valley to the hills to the North East. |
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| There is a steep 'whizz' down through the
deserted village of Dylife. Inappropriately named because there is the
remains of an former lead mine. Lead is not conducive to long life if you
are in close contact with the substance. We did notice a pub off to our left
which, I suppose would have been a welcome refuge in those high Welsh hills.
A friend and former BBC colleague of mine, Tony Escott
recalls:
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'Lots of the places for me brought
back memories of when I was an S.Tel.E/Lighting when I visited lots of
these places, and I must say that
they have not changed much. On the run over the mountains from
Machynlleth. Did you pass through Dylife, the ghost town where all the
men died at about 25 years of age having spent their brief lives
digging lead and arsenic out of the mountain?
'The pub is where we ate when we did
the week long OB (TV outside Broadcast) from the ghost town of Dylife.
At that time there were even prayer books on the pews of the church
and furniture in the houses. I lit the inside of the lead mine there.
It was a very dirty and dangerous job.
It was the first job that Peter
Stanton (I think you may remember him) did as a cameraman on Tel OB`s
having come from Lime Grove Studios. I think he wished he hadn't
because it rained, as only it can rain there, for a whole week.
I remember the Secretary (Beth
Price) sitting in a pool of water in the scanner. (BBC mobile control
room)' |
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