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'Entre Deux Mers'-Day 5

Saturday September 7th

day4-9.jpg (32258 bytes) It's an 'ah' photo, but pourquois pas?

This young lady was part of the family with whom we stayed in a riverside Chambre D'Hotes at Brantôme.

day5-1.jpg (33923 bytes) Once again, thankfully, it was dry and bright. 321 miles done so far, and at approximately 200 pedal rotations per mile, that's 16,000 per day! Also I have kept a record of the aggregate climb; this is now 3751 metres since rolling off the car ferry.


Quite a bit more climbing today, but the scenery and views makes it all worth while. Fewer trucks now, but more tourists; mostly Brits and Dutch.

By contrast with 'Suze' above, this is Chateau L'Evèque on the northern approach to Perigueux.

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Cyclists note: Up till now, nowhere in France did I see (or feel) a pothole larger than a 2 euro piece. This was to change in Perigueux and further south.

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day5-4.jpg (47357 bytes) Perigueux in all its glory. Shame about all the camper vans though! We manage to get 40 miles in at a good speed by lunchtime which is taken in Le Bugue in a rather nice restaurant where once again, we feel rather inappropriately dressed. The sun is blazing out of a clear blue sky, so we slap on sun lotion for the afternoon, which is getting a bit hot for biking.

Another river, La Vezere which has a particularly nice view....

 

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View looking the other way.

One particular climb takes us close to the pretty medieval village of Bèlves with some very non medieval music blaring across the field from a P.A system. It was their annual Fete.

day5-7.jpg (29895 bytes) A few miles on and we are running low on water. Both of us are drinking many litres a day so we are forever on the lookout for shops that are open. Not easy when all shops are closed from 12 till 2.30.

Miles from anywhere, we find a Spar supermarket which has more staff than customers. As I approach the till, the shop assistant comes inside and the Muzak suddenly launches into the British national anthem! Is that just for me?
day5-9.jpg (29110 bytes) Another long climb through heavily forested land brings us to Monpazier, a bastide, which professes itself to be one of France's prettiest villages. day5-8.jpg (43000 bytes) day5-10.jpg (37434 bytes)

As we approach the end of an 80 mile day, we pass beautiful villages and impressive chateaux in commanding positions overlooking the valley of the river Lot. 

 

day5-11.jpg (15203 bytes) Stormy clouds threaten to the south west. day5-12.jpg (32808 bytes)

Above is Chateau Biron which standing close to the watershed between the valleys of the Dordogne and the Lot, can be seen for many miles.

A quick stop for a couple of Oranginas and then it's a gradual and welcome descent through a pretty wooded valley to our chosen Chambre d'hote in Gavaudun for tonight.

day5-13.jpg (25842 bytes) The leaving of the Lot valley. day5-15.jpg (39728 bytes) Owned and restored by a Belgian couple, it is an old paper mill in a sylvan setting. There is a large inviting pool, but we settle for hot baths before joining our hosts and guests from Australia, Hungary, Holland, and France for a splendid meal.

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Apertifs on the terrace watching the sun go down, then inside for a very welcome dinner cooked by mine host who used to be Chef in a 5* hotel in Brussels. Nice one!

Sleep is once again assured.

 

 

Day 5: 80 miles in 6 hours 30 mins

Day 6