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A long coach journey, six hours took us south through the wilderness scenery to Punta Arenas, the most southern city in the world, according to Chileans. It was quite cold and wet, but we did have a look around the tourist hot spots before tucking ourselves into a LAN Chile flight to Puerto Montt.

 

On the morning of our departure from Torres del Paine, I was shown this nesting Ibis in some trees near the Hosteria. Thank you Gladys. Looking around a cemetery in the rain. Not what one usually does on holiday, but the cemetery in Punta Arenas is a history lesson waiting to be told.
 
The cemetery was established in 1894, north of the town centre, on Av. Bulnes. Its massive ornamental gateway was donated by the wealthy businesswoman Sara Braun, in 1919. There are handsome grounds, adorned with many neatly trimmed evergreen trees. Mausoleums and grave sites now fill the land space, and new burials are placed in niches (there is also a modern, private, lawn-type cemetery further out of town).

Separate Protestant burial in Chile began with O'Higgins in the early days of the Republic, respecting the religious freedom of the British community in Valparaiso. Later, "Cementerios de Disidentes" arose in other towns and cities with a significant non-Catholic community. In Punta Arenas, the so-called British Section is actually somewhat of a misnomer, because several other nationalities are represented, including German, French, Norwegian and Chilean. The picture is further complicated by family tomb-stones which record parents of two different nationalities, as well as their Chilean-born offspring.

The ornate memorials reflect the wealth of their 'inhabitants' and their families. Punta Arenas was a very busy place until the Panama Canal stole much of the sea bound traffic from the Magellan Straits. Southern South America, famous for it's huge sheep estancias, delivered tons and tons of wool.

Punta Arenas was dominated those days by two families - the Menendez' and the Braun's.

Mavis examines Punta Arenas's metal shepherd statue with a barely suppressed yawn.

Even in the steady rain, the dwellings of the suburbs are bright and cheerful.

A totem pole tells us that we are almost 14000 kilometres from home. It's early summer and raining. Mmm, bit like home. A few hours later and we land in Puerto Montt in the Chilean Lake district. We are warned that it rains for some 300 days a year here. Well, our own lake district has a not dissimilar reputation.

I saw this sign at the airport. I have my own theory as to what this means. Something about not polluting the pasta perhaps.

We arrive at our hotel towards dusk at Puerto Varas. The clouds on the horizon hide the elusive Osorno Volcano.

In the morning after, it's raining. Not a total surprise so we set out to explore on foot.

Looking towards our waterfront hotel (red roofed) in Puerto Varas.

Looking back towards our hotel and the town. It's a gentle, peaceful place (not in high summer, though!) with a Germanic styled church in the distance. Taken later in the day. Shame about all the wires which spoiled the lower part of the shot.

Puerto Varas